Trace the leg and skirt-board joint on a piece of paper.

Position the bracket with the flat portions of the bracket flush with the skirt boards.

Mark the chamfer depth and the location where each bracket lip enters the skirt boards.

Use a table saw to cut slots in the skirt boards for the top fasteners and corner bracket lips.

Tilt the band saw table to 45 degrees to cut the stopped chamfer on the top inside corner of each leg.

Use a wide blade (at least 3/8 in.) for a straighter cut.

The trick to driving a hanger bolt is to use two nuts on the bolt threads (inset).

Tighten the second nut down on the first nut to lock them together so that the bolt turns instead of the nuts.

Fasten the brackets to the skirt boards with No. 8 x 3/4-in. wood screws.

Then fasten the legs to the brackets with washers and bolts.

Bore pocket-screw holes in the stretchers and then attach the stretchers to the shelf with 2-in. wood screws.

Attach the stretchers to the skirt boards with 1-1/4-in. pocket-hole screws.

Cutting a shallow chamfer along a long edge requires a few special precautions.

To help support the workpiece, attach a tall fence extension to the existing fence (inset).

Clamp a long scrap to the workpiece to ride like a rail along the top of the fence.

Use two featherboards to help keep the workpiece from tilting.

Fasten the top to the base with tabletop fastener clips.

Drill 1/8-in.-dia. x 1/2-in.-deep pilot holes for each screw.

You can choose any furniture-grade finish for the top and base.

Because the legs, skirts and top of my table are built from three different species of solid wood and the shelf is a piece of plywood, there is no intention of trying to match the wood tones.

To play up the beauty of the reclaimed lumber, we applied clear satin polyurethane to the top and sprayed three coats of antique-white paint on the base.

After the finish cures, the last step is to fasten the top to the base with tabletop fastener clips.