Prop the sides apart while you fasten the cross braces between them using the lag bolts and washers.
Don’t scrimp on the size of these bolts, or your chair and/or stool could disassemble itself dramatically! Before you add the seat and back pieces to the chair, check for smoothness of all surfaces and edges. This is not only an appearance issue, but an obvious comfort issue as well.
Drop the back (3 screw holes up) and seat (any orientation) into their respective positions. Notice that the bottom of the back fits between the rear edge of the seat and the backstop on cross brace B. Do not sit yet!
With the seat and back pieces flush with the wide side of all 3 cross braces, fasten the back to cross brace A with three #8×1½" flathead wood screws. These screws prevent braces A and B from rotating; your weight will keep brace C fixed.
Now throw in a patio chair cushion set and give your chair a test-sit. The back cushion should rest on top of the seat cushion, whether they’re a stitched assembly or separate cushions. I’m 5'11", 150lbs, and the chair fits me perfectly. If you’re shorter, you can trim the sides along the bottom so that your feet will be well supported when you sit in the chair.
If you’re sure you want to build only the basic configuration, you can make the large bottom cutouts in the sides. However, if you’re building the Rok-Bak version, leave the sides solid for now.
Don’t be tempted to make cutouts in the sides under the seat. This will almost certainly make the chair too weak and wobbly.
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