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Editing Step 3 —

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Tie temporary supports to your 16" warping bar, the bar that shifts your work around the frame. This bar needs to be positioned in the bottom quarter of your frame. Secure the warp bar by tying yarn to both ends and then to the top of your frame. Repeat, this time tying the bar ends to the bottom of your frame. Adjust the temporary supports until the bar is parallel to the frame and is held tight.

When planning your project, you may only want an 8"-wide piece. Measure 4" to either side of your center point so it will be nice and even. I went for the full 16" this time around. Remember, though, that the wider the piece, the longer it will take to warp.

Tie 1 end of your warp to the left side of the warp bar, where your piece will start. For an 8" wide piece, you would tie it 4" to the left of the center point of your warping bar. You’ll also want to think about how many warps per inch you want. For our project we’ll use 10 epi (ends per inch). We marked off every 1⁄2" with a score mark, so we just need to make sure we get 1 warp into each score and 4 in between.

For the warping pattern, you need to go down and around the bottom of the loom from back to front, up and over the top on the front side, down and around the bar on the back side, up and over the top on the back side to the front, around the bottom to the back, around the bar, and repeat from the beginning until you have the right amount of warps. Just tie off your warp end to the bar. If you’re a visual learner, this diagram with fancy arrows will totally help.

Here is my warping in progress, about 4" into the 16".